School of the Wolf (The Witcher) Medallion Free Crochet Pattern
First published 6 May 2024
Welcome to my Witcher Medallion Crochet Pattern!
In this pattern:
I assume you are here because you, like me, love the world of The Witcher, and because you, like me, love crochet?
I got into The Witcher back when the first game was released, which I played on my brother Kevin’s PC (mine did not have good enough specs!) when I was around 17 years old (yes, I was playing video games as a 17 year old girl, what can I say!) I loved it. I then loved the 2nd game, and then the 3rd game, and then the expansions.
It wasn’t until I watched the first season of the Netflix series that I decided to read all of the Witcher books by Andrzej Sapkowski, which were also amazing. If you are a Witcher fan and haven’t read them yet, I highly recommend you do!
Geralt of Rivia is a Witcher in the School of the Wolf, and wears a medallion (like other Witchers), a symbol of his profession. These medallions are sensitive to magic, vibrating when monsters or magic is near.
So, without further ado, here is my pattern for the School of the Wolf Witcher Medallion! I hope you enjoy making it.
Please tag me in your finished creations @quicksavecrochet, share your creations on Ravelry, and email me if you have any questions or issues with the pattern.
Please note: The Witcher is the Intellectual Property of Andrzej Sapkowski and CD PROJEKT RED. This pattern is unofficial fan content, published in accordance with the fan content policy of CD PROJEKT RED, which is available here, and is not approved or endorsed by CD PROJEKT RED. This pattern is for personal use only, and you may not sell the finished product (this would place you in violation of said policy).
I have endeavoured to test this pattern but cannot guarantee that it is entirely free of typos, errors or inaccuracies. The final product is not guaranteed, and no liability is accepted for variation between this pattern and your own finished project. Note that the product made from this pattern is not intended to be used as a toy, and that small parts may present a choking risk. No liability is accepted for any injuries or damages that may occur.
Materials and Tools
Yarn: I used Rainbow Cotton 8/8 (100% cotton DK weight yarn in 75m/50g skeins). I used 40g (60m) of colour 14 (Silver Gray)
Hook: 3mm/Size D (or size required for your stitches to be tight enough)
Tapestry needle
Stitch markers, preferably locking
8mm safety eyes x2
Fibrefill stuffing
Scissors
Final size
Approximately 11cm tall x 10cm wide x 8cm deep
Abbreviations
This pattern is written in US terms.
BLO – Back loop only
ch – chain
FLO – front loop only
FSC – foundation single crochet (there are many great YouTube videos available which show how to make this stitch)
RS - Right side
sc – single crochet
sc 4 tog - single crochet 4 stitches together, with a yarn over (or under) between each one.
sc inc – single crochet increase (two single crochets into one stitch)
sk – skip
sl st – slip stitch
st(s) – stitch(es)
(…) x – work the steps within the brackets x number of times
(x sts) – total of number of stitches you should have at the end of this round
Technical notes and tips
Beginner-friendly: I have tried to include as many process photos as possible so that you should be able to follow on as a confident beginner with knowledge of basic stitches (and willingness to watch some YouTube videos!). Feel free to email me if something is not working for you, and I’ll be happy to help!
Working in the round: All of the components of the medallion are worked continuously, in the round, without using slip stitches or turning. At the end of a round, continue immediately with the next round by making the first stitch of the new round straight into the first stitch of the previous round. I always use a stitch marker to mark the first stitch of each round, and just move it to the new stitch each time I reach it.
Yarn-under vs yarn-over crochet: In making this Witcher Medallion, I used the “yarn-under” method of crochet, which is often used in amigurumi and gives a tighter weave, reducing the spaces between your stitches. This helps keep the stuffing from poking through the gaps in the stitches. I encourage you to also use the yarn-under technique – there are plenty of great YouTube tutorials available.
Gauge: Your gauge is not important for this pattern, but make sure there are no spaces between your stitches – you might need to use a smaller hook to achieve this.
Do not overstuff: The Witcher medallion is a very spiky thing. Of course, with crochet, it’s difficult to create sharp shapes, but overstuffing will make everything less spiky and more rounded. Try to stuff lightly.
Face (front)
Round 1: 6sc into a MC (6 sts)
Round 2: inc in each st around (12 sts)
Rounds 3 – 4: sc into each st around (12 sts)
Round 5: (sc into next 5 sts, 3sc in next st, [place a marker into the centre st of the 3sc]) x 2 (16 sts)
Round 6: (sc in each st until you reach the marked st, 3sc into the marked st [move the marker, placing it into the centre st of the new 3sc]) x2, sc in each remaining st until you reach the last st of the round (20 sts)
Continue to repeat round 6 (increasing by 4 stitches each round), making sure to move your marker each time so that the centre stitch of your 3sc increases are marked, until you have 40 sts (a total of 11 rounds). When you have completed round 11, sl st to the next st, and fasten off. Leave a long tail to attach the front of the face to the back of the face. Keep your markers in the middle stitches of the 3 sc of your last row – this will help you to line up the front and back of the face when you assemble the medallion.
Place safety eyes between rows 7 and 8, spaced evenly on either side of the nose.
Make sure to always mark the first stitch of your round.
Here, the yellow marker is the first stitch of round 5, and the orange markers are in the centres of the 3sc increases on either side.
Keep your stitch markers in place when you fasten off in the last round.
Approximate position of the eyes.
Face (back)
The back of the face is made by working into both sides of a starting chain, to create an oval with the same number of stitches as the front of the face (making it much easier to attach later on!)
Ch 11.
Round 1: sc in the 2nd ch from your hook (using the top loop only) [place a marker in the turning ch], and sc along until you have a single ch left (i.e. the 1st ch you made, which also has the slip knot). This should be 9sc. In the ch with the slip knot, make 3sc and mark the middle st, as you did with the front of the face. Rotate the piece, so that you can continue along the other side of the chain. Continue to sc in each ch until you reach the turning ch, which should have a marker in it. In this turning ch, make 3sc [and move the marker into the centre st of the 3sc] (24 sts)
Place a marker into both loops of the 11th chain (this will become a turning chain as you sc into the 2nd chain from the hook.)
Sc across until you have just one ch left, shown here.
In the last stitch, make 3sc and mark the middle one, as shown here.
When you rotate the chain, this will be your next stitch.
Continue to sc until you reach the turning chain, which should have a marker in it.
In the turning chain, make 3sc and mark the middle stitch, as you did on the other side.
Round 2: (sc in each st until you reach the marked st, 3sc into the marked st [move the marker, placing it into the centre st of the new 3 sc]) x2, sc in each remaining st until you reach the last st of the round (28 sts)
Continue to repeat round 2 (increasing by 4 stitches each round) until you have 40 sts (a total of 5 rounds). When you have completed round 11, sl st to the next st, and fasten off. Keep your markers in the middle stitches of the 3sc of your last row – this will help you to line up the front and back of the face when you assemble the medallion.
Make sure to mark the first st of each round.
Once you fasten off, keep the markers in that are in the middle sts of your 3sc increases.
Ears (make 2)
Round 1: Make 6sc into a MC (6 sts)
Round 2: sc in each st around (6 sts)
Round 3: (sc in each of the next 2 sts, sc inc) x 2 (8 sts)
Round 4: sc around (8 sts)
Round 5: (sc in each of the next 3 sts, sc inc) x 2 (10 sts)
Round 6: sc around (10 sts)
Round 7: (sc in each of the next 4 sts, sc inc) x 2 (12 sts)
Round 8: sc around (12 sts)
Sl st to the next st, and fasten off. Leave a long tail to attach the ear to the head.
Repeat - you will need 2 ears.
Jaw
Ch 8.
Round 1: sc into the 1st st of the ch 8 (i.e. the ch with the slip knot) to create a circle, and sc around (8 sts)
Rounds 2 – 7: sc around (8 sts)
At the end of round 7, fasten off. Flatten the tube, and use the tail and your tapestry needle to close round 7 using a whip stitch.
Thread your tapestry needle and fasten off.
For the whip stitch, you insert under both loops of the stitch (here attaching the 2 layers of the jaw tube together) and pull the needle through the top.
You then insert the needle under the next stitch of the bottom layer, and insert it under the corresponding stitch of the top layer, pulling tight. Continue this pattern until the layers are attached together.
Thread your tapestry needle through into the inside of the jaw and out the open end (where the starting chain is) and cut your ends.
Star (make 2)
Round 1: 8sc into a MC
Round 2:
First arm: Place a marker into your 2nd st (this will help to keep you orientated shortly). Into the 1st st, make 10 FSC. Ch 1, and sc into the BLO of each of the bases (i.e. the chains) of the FSC stitches (you should have 10 stitches after the ch 1). You should have one arm of your star now, and your hook should be next to the MC.
When you've completed your MC with its 8 sts, mark the 2nd st. You will now work 10 FSC into the 1st st.
This is what you should have after you make 10 FSC.
Chain 1 and work into the back loops of the 10 sts, which are actually the chain part of the FSC.
Do not work into the last stitch, which looks tempting but is not one of the chains we are aiming to use.
Round 2 continued:
Second arm: Move your marker to the 3rd st of the MC. Into the 2nd st of the MC (where the marker used to be), make 10 FSC. Ch 1, and sc into the BLO of each of the FSC stitches. You will then move your marker to the 4th st of the MC, and prepare to make the third arm in the 3rd of your 8 starting sc.
Repeat this pattern until you have 8 arms (although for the 8th arm you will not have any more stitches to mark). When you have done your last sc of the 8th arm, sl st to the next st, and fasten off.
Make your 10 FSC into the 2nd st of your MC, moving your marker.
Complete the 2nd arm as you did the 1st.
Again, move your marker to help to orientate you (here I've moved it to what was the 4th st of my MC)
Continue this pattern until you have 8 arms in your star.
You will note that the tips of each arm consists of a ch 1, and then the 10 sc stitches down the arm to reach the centre of the star. Note that for round 3, all of the stitches are made into BLO.
Round 3: With the RS facing you, join with a sl st into the BLO of the first st after the ch 1 (i.e. next to the tip) of any of the arms, and make a sc into the BLO of the same st and into the next 5 sts. Sc 4 tog (using only the back loops) to take you into the corner between the arms. Sc 4 tog again (BLO, going up the next arm), and sc into the BLO of the next 6 stitches. In the BLO of the tip (which is the ch 1), make a sc, ch 1, sc.
Repeat this pattern (sc into the next 6 stitches, sc 4 tog, sc 4 tog, sc into next 6 stitches, into the ch1 make a sc, ch1, sc) always in BLO, until you reach your first st. Join with a sl st and fasten off, leaving a very long tail to join the 2 stars together (make 2 stars - only one needs the long tail).
Join into the BLO of the st next to the tip.
You should have 6sc in this round so far (do not include the joining sl st) and 4 loops left of this arm.
Sc 4 together.
This is what the sc 4 tog looks like. Try to keep your yarn nice and tight as you reach for the next st, which is quite tiny and easy to miss!
Start up the next arm with a sc 4 tog.
Keeping your stitches tight makes the arms of the star adopt the right shape and angles.
After you've made your 6sc up the arm, you should reach the tip, a ch1. In this ch1, make a sc, ch1, sc.
Continue this pattern around all the arms, until you reach your first st, into which you can join with a sl st and fasten off.
Assembly
You should have all your pieces ready now. I start assembly with the front and back of the face, together with the jaw.
Step 1: If you have kept your stitch markers in place (in the centre of your 3 sc increases) you should have 2 markers (one on each of the left and right sides) of your front and back face pieces. Line these up, making sure that you have the right side (RS) facing outwards. Make one marker go through both of the marked stitches, and take one out. Repeat this process on the other side of the face. You should have just 2 markers in your piece now, connecting the right and left sides of your front and back piece.
Step 1: Attach the marked stitches of the face pieces (front and back) together, making sure the RS of the back piece is facing outwards.
Step 1 (continued): Repeat on other side.
Step 2: Thread your tapestry needle with the long tail you left when you finished off your front face piece. Count and line up your stitches carefully (I count it from the marker that is on the left hand side in the picture, i.e. the one furthest from where you fastened off). Because both the front and back pieces are the same number of total stitches (40), they should line up perfectly. Once you find the corresponding stitch to the stitch where you made your slip stitch, start to join the front and back pieces together with a modified whip stitch. A normal whip stitch goes through both loops of the “v” of your crochet stitches, but we are only going to go through the which are closest together, i.e. the back loops of the front piece and the front loops of the back piece.
For the whip stitch, you insert your tapestry needle from the bottom, through the respective loops of the 2 stitches, and out the top. You then insert the tapestry needle into the next stitch, again from the bottom, and up through the stitches, out the top. Continue this process until you reach your stitch marker – remove the marker, and make your modified whip stitch through the appropriate loops.
Step 2: These are the loops you should go through for the modified whip stitch.
Step 2 (continued): Keep going around in this manner until you reach the bottom edge of the face.
Step 3: In the bottom of the face, between the front and back layers, you are going to attach the jaw piece. To do this, insert the open end of the jaw (this was originally the starting chain) as shallowly as possible – you only want to insert 1 row into the space. Holding the jaw in place carefully (you can also use stitch markers/safety pins/dressmakers pins to hold it in place, if you choose), continue your modified whip stitch, making sure to match up the correct stitches. Your tapestry needle will need to pierce through the jaw piece to get from the one stitch to the other stitch, making sure to do so close to the base of the jaw piece, to keep everything nice and straight. Once you get past the jaw, you can carry on as normal.
Step 3: Align your jaw piece with the open end inside the face layers.
Step 3 (continued): Continue your modified whip stitch, but this time you will need to pierce the jaw piece to get to the other side of the face.
Step 3 (continued): You will bring your needle through the other side, under the loop you are trying to attach.
Step 3 (continued): You will need to pierce the jaw piece again to get your yarn to the other side, to continue with the next stitch.
Step 4: Continue around the face, past the marker (remove it and continue as normal) until you have a hole left about as big as your finger. Stuff the face (and nose lightly - it needs to be able to sit relatively flat against the star, once you've assembled it.
Step 5: Once stuffed, finish closing with the modified whip stitch, as before. Weave your end through the face, out the back, and cut it.
Step 4: Stuff lightly when you have a small space left.
Step 5: Weave in and cut your ends.
Step 6: You are now going to join the 2 sides of the star together. I’ll be honest with you, this is a pretty tedious part of this pattern (sorry!) but I promise the end is in sight! To start, lay out both of your stars with the right sides facing towards the outside. I like to have the one with the long tail (with which I thread the tapestry needle) on top. You now need to make sure that you are going to be going through the correct stitches, i.e. that they are lined up. To do this, I put a marker in the tips of 2 adjacent stars and count the stitches to make sure everything is going to line up. You are then going to start as for the face, going through the loops which are closest together, proceeding around all the arms of the stars. When you get to the markers, you can take them out and just carry on.
Step 6: Make sure everything lines up nicely, with the RS of both stars facing outward.
Step 6 (continued): Sew up the 2 stars as you did with the face.
Step 7: Once you are nearing the end, and have one arm left to close you can start to stuff the star. To do this, I used my finger and a pen to make sure each of the arms (except the one you’re busy closing) is evenly stuffed. You don’t want to stuff it too firmly, or it will be very round and not pointy at all. Continue closing and stuff the final arm when you just have a little space left, and then finish closing. If you still have a long tail left (as I did), you can bring it out at the front of the star to attach the face (whichever side you like, as it should be basically the same on the front and back of the star), otherwise weave in your end and cut it.
Step 7: Stuff all of the arms of the star (except for the final one) lightly.
Step 7 (continued): Continue to sew your star shut and stuff the final arm when you just have a small hole left, and then close up.
Step 8: You are now going to position the ears and attach them. I stuffed them lightly and positioned them as in and secured them with dressmaker’s pins. You can then attach them to the face – I attached them just behind the front ridge at the top of the face, and across the 3rd row at the back, trying to keep the ears symmetrical and evenly spaced. Once secured, weave in your ends and cut them, removing the pins.
Step 8: Attach the ears.
Step 8 (continued): Attach the ears.
Step 9: The final stretch! Position the face (with ears attached) and attach the star to the face. Nothing fancy is required here, because you shouldn’t be able to see your stitches – just check periodically that you are keeping it even and symmetrical. Once secured, weave in your end, cut it, and squeeze your ears, star points, jaw, etc., to make it even. That’s it, you’re done!
Step 9: Attach the face to the star.
That's it! Weave in your ends and enjoy your new Witcher Medallion.
I hope you’ve enjoyed making this Witcher Medallion! Please tag me in your final creations @quicksavecrochet, add your questions and comments below, or contact me using the contact form or quicksavecrochet@gmail.com.