Healing Potion Free Crochet Pattern
First published 18 May 2024
Last edited 15 June 2024
Welcome to my Healing Potion Free Crochet Pattern!
In this pattern:
If you’ve ever played any role-playing or adventure game, you’ll know all about healing potions! These will work for basically anything, to save your character from death from any manner of misadventure. Broken bones from an angry troll? It will work for that. Assaulted by a mob of angry villagers? Yep, that too. Accidentally stood in front of a powerful wizard’s fireball? Pop a healing potion!
I believe healing potions were first introduced in Dungeons & Dragons, but when I think of a healing potion, the ones I visualise are those from Blizzard’s Diablo 1. Have you ever seen a healing potion that isn’t red? Who decided that red is the colour of hit points, and blue is the colour of mana or magical power? I don’t know, but I’m not going to fight against what is so intuitively true!
I hope you enjoy making my crochet Healing Potion!
Please tag me in your finished creations @quicksavecrochet, share your creations on Ravelry, and email me if you have any questions or issues with the pattern.
The legal bit: This design is my creation and intellectual property. You may do what you want with your finished creations, giving credit to me as the designer, but please do not recreate, distribute, or sell this pattern. I have endeavoured to test this pattern but cannot guarantee that it is entirely free of typos, errors or inaccuracies. The final product is not guaranteed, and no liability is accepted for variation between this pattern and your own finished project. Note that the product made from this pattern is not intended to be used as a toy, and small parts in this pattern may present a choking risk. No liability is accepted for any injuries or damages that may occur.
Materials and Tools
Yarn: Hobbii Rainbow 8/8 Cotton DK-weight yarn in the following colours and approximate lengths:
Christmas Red (86) - 38 metres
Dark Brown (08) - 25 metres
Light Brown (06) - 7.5 metres
I also used Lurex Lamé Gold (02) DK yarn - less than 5m
Hook: 3mm/Size D crochet hook (or hook required for your stitches to be tight enough and not show any stuffing)
Tapestry needle (curved tip ideal)
Stitch markers
Plastic poly pellets (50g)
A nylon stocking
Fibrefill stuffing
Final size
Approximately 3 inches/7cm wide at the base and 3 inches/7cm wide at the base.
Abbreviations
This pattern is written in US terms.
BLO – Back loop only
ch – chain
FLO – front loop only
inc – increase (work two sc in one stitch)
inv dec – invisible decrease (see technical notes, below)
MR – magic ring
sc – single crochet
sk – skip
sl st – slip stitch
st(s) – stitch(es)
(…) x – work the steps within the brackets x number of times
(x sts) – total of number of stitches you should have at the end of this round
Technical notes and tips
Beginner-friendly – I have tried to include as many process photos as possible so that you should be able to follow on as a confident beginner with knowledge of basic stitches (and willingness to watch some YouTube videos!). Feel free to email me if something is not working for you, and I’ll be happy to help!
Yarn-under vs yarn-over crochet – In this pattern I used the “yarn-under” method of crochet, which is often used in amigurumi and gives a tighter weave, reducing the spaces between your stitches. I encourage you to also use the yarn-under technique – there are plenty of great YouTube tutorials available.
Invisible decrease – I always prefer to use the invisible decrease method of decreasing when making amigurumi, as there are no visible holes or bumps when decreasing using this method. In this method, you insert your hook into the front loop of the stitch, and then into the front loop of the next stitch (requires a bit of manoeuvring!) You will then yarn over (or under), draw the yarn through the first two loops on your hook (i.e. the front loops of the two stitches) – you then have two loops left on your hook. Yarn over and then draw the yarn through the two loops on your hook.
Gauge – Your gauge is not important when it comes to amigurumi, but it is important to keep your tension tight (or use a smaller hook) to make sure that stuffing does not show through your stitches.
Stitch markers – Place a stitch marker in the first stitch of each round to keep track of where you are in the pattern, and move it each round. Make sure to count your stitches at the end of each round so you can catch any errors early!
Bottle
Using Christmas Red
Round 1: 6 sc in MR (6 sts)
Round 2: 6 inc (12 sts)
Round 3: (sc, inc) x 6 (18 sts)
Round 4: (2 sc, inc) x 6 (24 sts)
Round 5: (3 sc, inc) x 6 (30 sts)
Round 6: (4 sc, inc) x 6 (36 sts)
Round 7: Sc around in BLO (36 sts)
Round 8: Sc around (in both loops) (36 sts)
You should have something that looks like this at the end of Round 6.
For Round 7, make all your sc in the back loops of the stitches.
You should have something like this at the end of Round 7. It might be trying to curl a bit, don't worry about this for now.
For Round 8 and the rounds thereafter, make sure to use both loops.
Round 9: (5 sc, inc) x 6 (42 sts)
Round 10: sc around (42 sts)
Round 11: (6 sc, inc) x 6 (48 sts)
Rounds 12 – 18: sc around (48 sts)
Round 19: (6 sc, inv dec) x 6 (42 sts)
Round 20: (5 sc, inv dec) x 6 (36 sts)
Round 21: (4 sc, inv dec) x 6 (30 sts)
Round 22: (3 sc, inv dec) x 6 (24 sts)
End of Round 10
End of Round 10 (from the top)
End of Round 18 - you will now start to decrease.
End of Round 22 - pause at this point as you don't want the hole to get too small for the pellets.
Place about 4 tablespoons or 50g of poly pellets into your nylon stocking (I have a bag of cheap ankle-high stockings for this purpose!) and tie a knot in the top, cutting off the excess stocking. Some people will just pour the poly pellets straight into their crochet items, but you really shouldn’t do this - they might find their way out between your stitches, no matter how tight you think they are. They then obviously present a choking hazard, or end up in the environment. Using a stocking is best.
Pour your poly pellets into your stocking.
This is the approximate amount you'll need, but you can use more if you want a heavier finished product.
Tie a knot and cut the excess.
It should fill about two-thirds of the bottle. Try to orientate the stocking so that the knot is at the top.
Round 23: (2 sc, inv dec) x 6 (18 sts)
Round 24: sc around in FLO (18 sts)
Rounds 25 – 29: sc around (in both loops) (18 sts)
Place a stitch marker into the back loop of the first stitch of row 29.
Lip: In the front loop of this stitch (without the marker), make 2sc. In the FLO of the next stitch, make a sc. Continue (inc, sc) into the FLO to the end of the round. Sl st to the next st and fasten off. (27 sts)
Using the FLO of Round 24 gives the neck of the bottle a nice shape.
End of round 29.
In the back loop of your next stitch (which was the first stitch of round 29), place a marker.
Leaving the marker in the back loop, make your stitches into the front loops of the stitches from round 29 to make the lip.
This is what you should start seeing, a lip for the bottle.
The completed lip should look like this. Leave the marker in place in the back loop for now, you will use it later to make the cork.
Base
In Dark Brown
The first 6 rounds are the same as for the bottle.
Round 1: 6 sc in MR, leaving a length of tail when you start (6 sts)
Round 2: 6 inc (12 sts)
Round 3: (sc, inc) x 6 (18 sts)
Round 4: (2sc, inc) x 6 (24 sts)
Round 5: (3sc, inc) x 6 (30 sts)
Round 6: (4sc, inc) x 6 (36 sts)
Round 7: (5sc, inc) x 6 (42 sts)
Round 8: sc around in BLO (42 sts)
Round 9: sc around (in both loops) (42 sts)
Round 10: (6 sc, in the next st make a sc, ch2, sc) x 6 (66 sts including chs)
Slip st to next st and fasten off.
End of round 7.
Make your stitches of round 8 into the back loops only.
These BLO stitches give this ridge which shapes the base.
Round 10 includes these little shells, made of a (sc, ch2, sc) in the same stitch.
End of round 10 (from the top).
End of round 10 (from the side/front).
Ring
This is worked back and forth in rows, turning, and the ends are joined together at the end.
Using Dark Brown
Ch 19
Row 1: sc in the 2nd ch from hook, sc to the end (18 sts)
Rows 2 – 3: ch 1, turn. Sc across (18 sts)
Row 4: (2sc, in the next st make a sc, ch2, sc) x 6 (42 sts including chs)
Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Use the tail to join the 2 ends together using a whip stitch.
For row 1, make your stitches in the back bumps of the chain, as shown here.
End of row 4. Fasten off, leaving a long tail.
Bring the 2 ends together, as shown.
Use your tapestry needle to sew the ring closed.
Your completed ring should look like this. Finish off by weaving in all your ends.
Slip the ring over the neck of the bottle. The shell stitches should point towards the base of the bottle.
Cork
In Light Brown
Round 1: Join into the back loop of the round behind the lip (you should have marked this stitch earlier). Sc around in the back loops, which look like a ridge and are the only loops available (18 sts)
Round 2: (2 sc, inc) x 6 (24 sts)
Rounds 3 – 4: sc around (24 sts)
Stuff the bottle and neck firmly with your stuffing. Do not overstuff - you want the bottom of the bottle to sit flat.
Round 5: In the BLO each time, (2 sc, inv dec) x 6 (18 sts) Note: Usually inv dec sts are made in FLO. Making them in the BLO can be a bit tight and fiddly, but gives the best look for this cork. If it’s too tight, you can make Round 5 in both loops and make normal inv dec sts (using the FLO as is usual).
Round 6: (sc, inv dec) x 6 (12 sts)
Stuff the cork firmly.
Round 7: 6 inv dec (6 sts)
Close in the inverted magic circle method (This is where you fasten off, leaving a tail, then use your tapestry needle to weave your yarn through every second stitch FLO and pull the circle closed. Weave in your end.
Join into the marked stitch from earlier with a sl st (this doesn't count as a stitch), and make a sc into the same st and into each BLO around.
You will make your stitches in the back loops of the lip, which should be visible as a ridge.
End of round 1.
End of round 7.
Close in the inverted magic circle method, and then poke your needle through the cork and pull, which helps to make the top flat.
This is what the top of your cork should look like.
Using the brown tail from when you started the base, attach the MR of the base to the MR of the bottle. Weave any other loose yarn ends into the bottle and make cut the excess.
Use the tail from the base to attach the centre of the brown base to the centre of the bottle base.
Make 1 or 2 passes attaching the base, and pull fairly tightly.
Chain
Before you start the chain, make sure the ring is sitting right at the bottom of the neck.
With gold
Join to one of the 6 shells of the base, around the ch2 space (we will call this the 1st of the 6 shells).
Ch enough chains to reach one of the shells of the ring (for me this was 10 chains, but will depend on how firmly you stuffed, your yarn, and how tight your chains are). Sl st around the ch2 of the ring shell.
Continue chaining to reach the 3rd shell of the base (there should be an unused shell between where you started, and this new shell), then up to the 3rd shell of the ring, then down to the 5th shell of the base, and up to the 5th shell of the ring. You will then fasten off, and repeat this same process with the remaining 3 shells on the base and 3 shells on the ring.
Weave in and cut your ends.
Join to any of the base shells, around the ch2 space.
Chain up towards the ring, making a slight diagonal.
Chain down to the base shell, skipping one of the base shells, to make a diagonal chain.
Make a slip stitch around the ch2 space.
After joining to the base shell, chain up to a ring shell, again skipping one.
Continue this pattern and finally join to the same chain space where you started.
Looking from the top at this point, you should have this appearance.
You will now join to one of the remaining base shells, and follow the same pattern as before, using the remaining shells.
You should arrive back at where you started. Weave in your ends. That's it - you're done!
I hope you’ve enjoyed making my Healing Potion! Why not make a blue mana potion, or a mysterious green or purple potion? Please tag me in your final creations @quicksavecrochet, add your questions and comments below, or contact me using the contact form or pop me an email at quicksavecrochet@gmail.com.