Astarion (Baldur’s Gate 3) Amigurumi Free Crochet Pattern
First published 11 May 2024
I have been a Dungeons & Dragons fan for a long time. When other girls were playing with anatomically-implausible dolls, I was rolling a D20 with the best of them (okay fine, I was probably about 14 years old, but still!)
I have played a lot of D&D RPGs in my time, including Baldur’s Gate 1 and 2. Baldur’s Gate 3, however, is special. The wonderful thing about D&D is the freedom to do pretty much whatever you can imagine, and Larian Studios has done an amazing job with this, allowing you to feel like you really have a hand in the story, as you do in a table top D&D game.
The origin characters in Baldur’s Gate 3 are also so interesting and it is so easy to become invested in their backstories and character development. Astarion was my favourite right from the beginning of the game. He is the perfect vampire – tortured, arrogant, and beautiful.
“Who needs morals when you have good hair?” – Astarion
I hope you enjoy making my crochet version of Astarion!
Please tag me in your finished creations @quicksavecrochet, share your creations on Ravelry, and email me if you have any questions or issues with the pattern.
Please note: Astarion is the intellectual property of Larian Studios, while Wizards of the Coast holds the license for the Dungeons & Dragons and Baldur's Gate intellectual property. This pattern is unofficial fan content, published in accordance with the fan content policy of Larian Studios, which is available here, and is not approved or endorsed by either Larian Studios or Wizards of the Coast. This pattern is for personal use only, and you may not sell the finished product (this would place you in violation of said policy).
I have endeavoured to test this pattern but cannot guarantee that it is entirely free of typos, errors or inaccuracies. The final product is not guaranteed, and no liability is accepted for variation between this pattern and your own finished project. Note that the product made from this pattern is not intended to be used as a toy, and that small parts may present a choking risk. No liability is accepted for any injuries or damages that may occur.
Materials and Tools
Yarn: Any double knit (DK) weight yarn (I used Women’s Institute Premium Acrylic yarn because it’s great value, some of the money goes to charity, and I have a ton of it in my stash!) I used less than 10g each of the following colours:
Grey, Light Grey*, Honey, White, Red, Purple, Navy, Brown, Mustard
*Note – In this yarn, there are 2 colours called “Grey”, but one is clearly lighter than the other! You will need both shades for this pattern.
I didn’t measure the amount of yarn I used, but it was less than a skein of each colour.
Hook: 3mm/Size D crochet hook (or hook required for your stitches to be tight enough and not show any stuffing)
Tapestry needle (curved tip ideal)
8mm safety eyes
Black embroidery thread
Stitch markers
Sewing/dressmaker pins
Fibrefill stuffing
Final size
Approximately 6.5 inches/16cm tall.
Abbreviations
This pattern is written in US terms.
BLO – Back loop only
ch – chain
FLO – front loop only
hdc – half double crochet
inc – increase (work two sc in one stitch)
inv dec – invisible decrease (see technical notes, below)
MR – magic ring
sc – single crochet
sk – skip
sl st – slip stitch
st(s) – stitch(es)
tc – triple crochet
(…) x – work the steps within the brackets x number of times
(x sts) – total of number of stitches you should have at the end of this round
Technical notes and tips
Beginner-friendly – I have tried to include as many process photos as possible so that you should be able to follow on as a confident beginner with knowledge of basic stitches (and willingness to watch some YouTube videos!). Feel free to email me if something is not working for you, and I’ll be happy to help!
Invisible decrease – I always prefer to use the invisible decrease method of decreasing when making amigurumi, as there are no visible holes or bumps when decreasing using this method. In this method, you insert your hook into the front loop of the stitch, and then into the front loop of the next stitch (requires a bit of maneuvering!) You will then yarn over, draw the yarn through the first two loops on your hook (i.e. the front loops of the two stitches) – you then have two loops left on your hook. Yarn over and then draw the yarn through the two loops on your hook.
Colour changes – To make a neat colour change, you should change your yarn in the last stitch of the round before the first stitch of the next round in the new colour. For example, if you were to crochet round 1 in white, and then want round 2 to be in red, in the last sc of round 1, you will start your sc the usual way (insert your hook under both loops of the next stitch, yarn over [or under, depending on preference]) with your white yarn and draw this loop through, and then yarn over with your new yarn in red, and pull this red yarn through both white loops. You will then start round 2 with the red yarn. If you are ending the round with an invisible decrease, you will also change the colour at the final yarn over of the invisible decrease, to be left with one loop of the new colour on your hook.
Gauge – Your gauge is not important when it comes to amigurumi, but it is important to keep your tension tight (or use a smaller hook) to make sure that stuffing does not show through your stitches.
Stitch markers – Place a stitch marker in the first stitch of each round to keep track of where you are in the pattern, and move it each round. Make sure to count your stitches at the end of each round so you can catch any errors early!
Head and Body
The head and body are worked in one piece.
Using Honey
Round 1: 6 sc in MR (6 sts)
Round 2: inc in each st around (12 sts)
Round 3: (sc, inc) x 6 (18 sts)
Round 4: (2 sc, inc) x 6 (24 sts)
Round 5: (3 sc, inc) x 6 (30 sts)
Round 6: (4 sc, inc) x 6 (36 sts)
Rounds 7 – 10: sc around (36 sts)
Round 11: (4 sc, inv dec) x 6 (30 sts)
Round 12: (3 sc, inv dec) x 6 (24 sts)
Round 13: (2 sc, inv dec) x 6 (18 sts)
At this point, you should attach the safety eyes and embroider the facial features, before the hole gets too small to work in. Make sure you make the face on the side opposite to the first stitch of the round (otherwise all your colour changes will be visible on the front of the final product!)
I inserted the eyes between rounds 8 and 9 with 5 stitches between them. Insert them loosely at first so you can make sure you’re happy with their placement before securing them. I then embroidered some simple eyelashes (Astarion is a beautiful man, after all!), cocky eyebrows and an I’m-better-than-you-and-I-know-it half-smile! [I also added a nose but later removed it as I didn’t like the look with the nose!]
I inserted the safety eyes (loosely at first) between rounds 8 and 9, opposite to the first stitches of each round, with 5 stitches between them.
Embroider some cute eyelashes while the safety eyes are still loosely attached. Once you are satisfied, tighten the backs onto the safety eyes.
I was playing with the idea of a nose but later removed it! Embroider a little half-smile.
Round 14: (sc, inv dec) x 6 (12 sts)
Stuff the head firmly at this point.
Round 15: (sc, ind dec) x 4 (8 sts)
Round 16: 8 sc (8 sts)
Change to White
Round 17: Working in FLO for each stitch, (sc, inc) x 4 (12 sts)
Round 18: Now working in both loops as you normally would, (sc, inc) x 6 (18 sts)
Change to Red
Round 19: (2 sc, inc) x 6 (24 sts)
Round 20: (3 sc, inc)) x 6 (30 sts)
Rounds 21 – 26: sc around (30 sts)
Change to Brown
Rounds 27 – 28: sc around (30 sts)
Round 29: (3 sc, inv dec) x 6 (24 sts)
Round 30: (2 sc, inv dec) x 6 (18 sts)
Round 31: (sc, inv dec) x 6 (12 sts)
Stuff firmly
Round 32: 6 inv dec (6 sts)
Cut your yarn, leaving about 6” of yarn. Using a tapestry needle, weave through the FLO of all the 6 stitches, one after another, pulling tight at the end. You will be left with a bit of a bump. Push the needle through the centre hole and out somewhere else (e.g. up the top of the red area at the back) and the bump should be pulled inside. Cut your yarn, poking the end inside.
Ears (make 2)
Using Honey
Ch 6
For each of the stitches below, make your stitches into the back bumps of the chains (see pictures below)
Round 1: tc in 2nd ch from hook, 2 hdc [in numbers 3 and 4], sc [in number 5], sl st to last bump [number 6]. Cut your yarn and leave around 6” of tail. Pull the tail from the starting chain through the loop to make the ears more pointed and pull fairly tightly. You will need to weave these ends back and forth through the ears to reach the more rounded end (where your tc is), where they will be used to attach the ears to the head.
Chain 6, these are the front V stitches - do not make your stitches into these, but into the back bumps.
Looking at the back of the chain, you will find the back bumps of the chains, where you will be inserting your hook. You will yarn over twice and insert your hook under the second back loop from the hook (noted here with the arrow) to make your tc.
Hook the starting tail (shown here on the left of the image) through the loop (on the right and pull both of the yarn tails firmly to make the ear more pointed.
Pulling the starting yarn tail through the loop to make the ear more pointed.
Weave the ends from the pointy end, through the ear, and out the other end. You should have a pointed ear with both yarn ends coming out the more rounded side.
Hair
Keep tension throughout hair, including when making chains
Using Light Grey
Make a magic ring
Round 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6 sts)
Round 2: sc inc in every stitch around (12 sts)
Round 3: (sc, inc) x 6 (18 sts)
Round 4: (2 sc, inc) x 6 (24 sts)
Round 5: (3 sc, inc) x 6 (30 sts)
You are now going to make 30 strands of hair of different lengths by chaining a certain number of stitches. Keep your tension tight when chaining, which will make the hair strands curly, the right length, and give the hair extra body when you attach it to the head.
Strand 1: (continuing from end of round 5, above) Ch 6, sc in 2nd ch from hook and sc along (5 sts). Sl st to the next stitch of Round 5.
You should have 30 stitches at the end of round 5. In each of these stitches you are going to work a hair strand, resulting in 30 strands.
You should have one strand. that looks like this, and have a slip stitch to the next stitch of round 5, where you will now begin Strand 2.
Strand 2: Ch 10, sc in 2nd ch from hook and sc along (9 sts). Sl st to the next stitch of Round 5.
Strand 3: Ch 12, sc in 2nd ch from hook and sc along (11 sts). Sl st to the next stitch of Round 5.
Strand 4: Ch 16, sc in 2nd ch from hook and sc along (15 sts). Sl st to the next stitch of Round 5.
Strand 5: Ch 12, sc in 2nd ch from hook and sc along (11 sts). Sl st to the next stitch of Round 5.
Strand 6: Ch 14, sc in 2nd ch from hook and sc along (13 sts). Sl st to the next stitch of Round 5.
Strand 7: Ch 8, sc in 2nd ch from hook and sc along (7 sts). Sl st to the next stitch of Round 5.
Strand 8: Ch 12, sc in 2nd ch from hook and sc along (11 sts). Sl st to the next stitch of Round 5.
The following strands will form hair at the back of the head, and we want them to be thicker strands, so they will be made of hdc stitches rather than sc. You will notice there are long strands (ch 10) alternating with short strands (ch 6) for the back of the hair.
Strands 9, 11, 13, 15, 17, 19, 21, 23, 25, 27: Ch 10, hdc in 2nd ch from hook and hdc along (9 sts). Sl st to the next stitch of Round 5.
Strand 10, 12, 14, 16, 18, 20, 22, 24, 26, 28: Ch 6, hdc in 2nd ch from hook and hdc along (5 sts). Sl st to the next stitch of Round 5.
The last 2 strands will be at the front of the head again, so will be made of sc (not hdc).
Strand 29: Ch 12, sc in 2nd ch from hook and sc along (11 sts). Sl st to the next stitch of Round 5.
Strand 30: Ch 8, sc in 2nd ch from hook and sc along (7 sts). Sl st to the next stitch of Round 5 (the beginning of the Strand 1) and fasten off, leaving a very long tail of about 20”.
Here are the 30 strands shown pinned out. The ones marked with an asterisk* are made of half double crochet stitches (strands 9 to 28) while the rest are made of single crochet stitches.
Jacket
The jacket is made in rows, starting from the longer bottom edge, and decreasing towards the top. You will then create a border with purple from one corner, up the side and across the top, and back down the other side. You will then add a collar in navy, and embroider some detail with Mustard.
Using Navy
Ch 28
Row 1: Starting in the first ch from your hook, sc in the back bumps of each st across (28 sts)
Rows 2 – 3: Ch1, turn. Sc across (28 sts)
Row 4: Ch1, turn. Inv dec, then sc across to your last 2 sts, inv dec in these 2 sts (26 sts)
Row 5: Repeat row 4 (24 sts)
Row 6: Repeat row 4 (22 sts)
Row 7: Repeat row 4 (20 sts).
Fasten off here, leaving a short navy tail to weave in later.
You should heve this so far. I have marked the stitches here which are the the first and last stitches of the last row.
Using Purple
Jacket border: Join into the corner of the turning chain between rows 1 and 2. Place 8 HDC stitches evenly along the edge, which should take you to the top corner of the jacket.
Hdc into the first stitch of row 7, and place a marker here, and hdc into the next 19 sts of row 7.
Place another 8 hdc evenly down the other edge. You should have a total of 36 purple hdc stitches.
Fasten off, leaving a long purple tail which will be used to attach the jacket to the body.
This is where you should join, which would be the bottom right corner of the previous picture.
Work up the short edge in hdc.
Work across the top in hdc.
And down the other long edge. Don't add purple to the bottom edge.
Still using Purple
Join into the stitch holding a stitch marker, which should be the first stitch you made in purple along the top of the jacket (which should have a total of 20 stitches across the top). Inv dec into this same st (i.e. making a decrease with the next st), and inv dec across (10 sts). In your yo of your inv dec, change to navy.
Using Navy
Collar: Ch1, turn. Make a tc and hdc into the 1st st, a sc into the 2nd st, and sc inc into the 3rd st. Make a sc into each of the next 4 stitches. Sc inc into the next st (the 8th st), sc into next st (the 9th st) and finally a hdc and tc into the last (10th) st. Fasten off and weave in the end.
In the last purple decrease, change to navy, ch1 and turn.
Your collar should look something like this.
Using Mustard
Embroider the gold stitching along the purple part of the jacket. You can do this using surface crochet, or with a simple in-and-out weave as I did with a tapestry needle. The main thing is to make sure both sides are even as the jacket will be closed at the front of the body during assembly.
I used a simple weave for the gold accent.
Try to make the left and right sides symmetrical, as they will sit together and an uneven pattern will be more noticeable when you close the jacket.
Legs (make 2)
Using Brown
Ch 6. You are going to work on both sides of this chain to make an oval. I like to put a stitch marker into both sides of the 1st chain (i.e. the chain next to the slip knot) to help orientate myself!
Round 1: sc in 2nd chain from hook, 3 sc, then make 3 sc in the last ch of this side of the starting ch 6. Continue working around the other side of the chain (skip the other side of the starting chain, i.e. don’t use the loop with the marker in it): 3 sc, then inc in the last ch (12 sts)
Round 2: inc into the first st, 3 sc, inc in each of the next 3 sts, 4 sc, inc in the last st (17 sts)
Round 3: sc around in BLO (17 sts)
Round 4: 5 sc, 4 inv dec, 4 sc (13 sts)
Round 5: 4 sc, 3 inv dec, 3 sc (10 sts)
Round 6: sc around (10 sts)
At this point you are going to make a cuff for the boot. You will work in the front loops of the last round (round 6) to make the cuff, and then go back to the back loops of that round (round 6) in a different colour to make the sock.
Place a stitch marker in the back loop of the next stitch (this is where you are going to start round 7)
Place markers in the top and bottom loops of the first stitch. You will crochet into the top loop, but not the bottom one.
When you get to the first marker, remove it, make 3sc into this loop, turn the whole chain, and carry on on the other side, skipping the marked loop (you can remove the marker).
You should have 12 stitches at the end of round 1.
Place a marker in the back loop of the next stitch, as you will need to find this loop later.
Boot cuff: sc in the FLO of the next stitch (keeping the stitch marker in the back loop of this stitch), inc in the FLO of the next st, (sc, inc) around until you reach the first sc you made of the boot cuff. You should have 15 sts in the boot cuff. Fasten off and leave a short tail to weave in later.
Your boot should look something like this - the stitches in the front loops should turn out like a cuff, making it easier to find the back loops of round 6 (the first of which is marked with your stitch marker).
Using Purple
Round 7: Join using a sl st into the back loop you marked earlier, and make a sc into the same st as the sl st (ignore the sl st when counting your sts and when starting the next round), sc around in all the back loops of the round (10 sts)
Round 8: sc around (10 sts)
As for the boot cuff, you will now make a sock cuff in the same fashion. Place a stitch marker in the back loop of the next stitch (this is where you are going to start round 9).
Sock cuff: sc in the FLO of the next stitch (keeping the stitch marker in the back loop of this stitch), inc in the FLO of the next st, (sc, inc) around until you reach the first sc you made of the sock cuff. You should have 15 sts in the sock cuff. Fasten off and leave a short tail to weave in later.
Round 9: Join using a sl st into the back loop you marked earlier, and make a sc into the same st as the sl st (ignore the sl st when counting your sts and skip it when starting the next round – you will go straight to the sc), sc around in all the back loops around (10 sts)
Rounds 10 – 12: sc around (10 sts)
Change to Brown
Rounds 13 – 14: sc around (10 sts)
Fasten off and leave a long brown tail to attach the leg to the body. Weave in your brown tail from the boot, purple tail, and navy tail.
Here, I have taken the stitch marker out of my back loop of the first stitch of round 6, joined using a slip stitch with purple, and then made a single crochet. The slip stitch does not count as a stitch, so I've marked the sc with the stitch marker.
This is what you should have at the end of Round 9.
Arms (make 2)
Using Honey
Create a magic ring
Round 1: 6 sc into MR (6 sts)
Round 2: (sc, inc) x 3 (9 sts)
Round 3: sc around (9 sts)
Change to white
Round 4: sc around (9 sts)
Round 5: inc in each st around (18 sts)
Change to Dark Grey
Round 6: sc in BLO of each st around (18 sts)
Round 7: inv dec around (9 sts)
Stuff firmly
Round 8: (sc, inv dec) x 3 (6 sts)
Change to Navy
Round 9: inc in FLO of each st around (12 sts)
Round 10: sc in BLO of each st around (12 sts)
Round 11: (sc, inv dec) x 4 (8 sts)
Fasten off, leaving a long tail to sew the arm onto the body.
Using Brown, at the join of Dark Grey to Navy, slip stitch into one of the stitches. Surface crochet all around this join, trying not to hook any of the stuffing (if you do, you can just pull out this bit of stuffing or even snip it very carefully). Fasten off and weave in your ends. Stuff the rest of the arm firmly.
If this doesn’t work for you, you can make a brown chain long enough to go around, and sew it on with your tapestry needle.
You should have a little arm like this.
Slip stitch all the way around the join (i.e. a surface crochet) of dark grey to navy, and then fasten off and weave in the end.
Dagger
Using Brown
Create a magic ring
Round 1: 5 sc into MR (5 sts)
Rounds 2 – 4: sc around, making sure that the right side remains on the outside of the cylinder you are creating (5 sts)
Place a marker into the back loop of the first stitch of round 4.
Hilt: inc in the FLO of the next stitch (where there is a marker in the back loop), and inc in the FLO of each st around. Sl st to the first st you made of the hilt, and fasten off, leaving a long tail which we will use to attach the dagger to the body. (10 sts)
Insert a stitch marker into the back loop of the first stitch of round 4. You will create the hilt by working increases into the front loops only.
Your hilt should look like this. You are now going to go back and work into the back loop where you placed your stitch marker.
Using Light Grey
Round 5: Join using a sl st into the back loop you marked earlier, and make a sc into the same st as the sl st (ignore the sl st when counting your sts and when starting the next round), sc around in the back loops (5 sts)
Rounds 6 – 9 : sc around (5 sc)
Sl st to next st, and cut yarn leaving a short length. Thread your tapestry needle with this yarn, and close the hole by weaving into each of the back loops of your 5 stitches and pulling tight. Weave this end into your dagger and out the other side, and cut it, poking the end into the dagger so you can’t see it.
Join using a slip stitch into the marked back loop, and work a single crochet into the same stitch
Use your tapestry needle to close this hole by weaving into all the back loops one after another, and pulling tight.
Assembly
Position the ears on either side of the head, 1 row below the level of the eyes. Use sewing pins to pin them in place while you work. To attach the ears to the head, use one of the tails of yarn on each ear and sew the more rounded part of the ear to the head, leaving the pointed end free to poke away from the head. Weave in any tails into the head, pulling them gently through the top of the head, and cut the excess yarn.
Attaching the hair is the most complex so we are going to tackle that next!
You should have a long piece of grey thread attached to your hair piece. Line up round 1 of your hair piece with round 1 of the head. Strand number 1 is going to be the little strand that sits across Astarion's right eyebrow - look at the pictures below to get the idea of how I achieved this specific look. You can then use pins to secure the round hair piece in place and attach it by using light grey yarn and your tapestry needle, going around the edge of the crown and into the head. You can then take the pins out (note in the pics below I only removed all the pins at the end, which made it more difficult as some were buried under hair strands – in retrospect I realise it’s better to remove them first before proceeding to arrange the hair strands!)
While pinning, make sure the hdc are at the back of the head, and that Strand 1 is sitting above his right eyebrow (see other pic).
I'm not sure what you are smiling at, Astarion - this is definitely not a good look for you.
You will now place each of the 30 strands in place, pin it into place, attach each one with your yarn, and then remove the pins. The numerous pictures below show how I placed each of the strands to achieve the look I wanted, but obviously you can change this up as you see fit!
When sewing the hair strands into place with the yarn, I just attached it a point approximately half a centimetre away from the end of the hair strand, which helps the ends lift up a bit and give more body to the hair.
Strand 1 position (red pin)
Strand 2 position, appearance from the front
Strand 2 position, appearance from the top (dark green pin)
Strand 3 position, appearance from the front
Strand 3 position, appearance from the top (light green pin)
Strand 4 position, appearance from the front
Strand 4 position, appearance from the top (navy pin)
Strand 5 & 6 positions, appearance from the front
Strand 5 & 6 positions, appearance from the top (black and red pins)
Strand 7 position, appearance from the front (light blue pin)
Strand 7 position, appearance from the side (light blue pin)
Strand 8 position, appearance from the side
Strand 8 position, appearance from the top (navy pin)
Strand 9 position, appearance from the side (red pin)
The long strands made of hdc stitches now get pinned down next to each other (strands 11, 13, 15, 17, 19, 21, 23)
Strands 9 (red), 11 (black), 13 (black), 15 (light blue), 17 (yellow), 19 (green), 21 (red), 23 (orange - not visible)
Strand 27 position, appearance from the side (orange pin)
Strand 25 position, appearance from the right (light green pin)
Strand 27 position, appearance from the front (orange pin)
Go back now and pin down the short hdc strands at the back (strands 10, 12, 14, 16, 18, 20, 22, 24). The remaining short strands 26 and 28 I left to curl on their own.
Strands 29 & 30 position, appearance from the side (dark green and light blue pins)
You can now sew on each of the strands (except 26 and 28, unless you decide you want a different position!) and take out the pins. I just sewed each strand on with one anchoring point about half a centimetre (quarter of an inch) away from the end of each strand.
The top should look something like this - you shouldn't be able to see the flat circle of the first 5 rounds of the hair piece.
Try to get the artfully messy look of Astarion's 'do!
After the hair, attach the legs one at a time. Push the stuffing deep inside the leg so it doesn’t get pulled out when sewing (it will migrate up later on). Using the long brown tail of yarn still attached to the leg, I attached them by weaving in and out of the back loops of the last round of the leg, and attaching them over rounds 1 to 3 of the body. Make sure the legs are attached symmetrically.
Attach the jacket next. Make sure the collar faces outwards. Pull the jacket closed tightly so that it closes over the belly. I used the long navy tail still attached to the jacket, and attached it along the front edge, around the collar, and again down the other front edge. I did not attach it along the bottom edge at the back, but left it loose. Use Brown to make a simple belt by making a chain of enough stitches to wrap around (for me, this was 30 stitches, but it will depend how tightly you chain), fasten off, and sew it on at the front with the chain’s tail (where the pins are in the picture below).
You can now attach the arms. Push the stuffing deep into the arm and squeeze the top part of the arm flat. I like to make sure the join (where you changed your yarn colour each round) is on the underside of the arm. For the arm, thread your tapestry needle through both layers of the arm (i.e. through 2 stitches at the same time) and attached it at the join of the navy to the purple yarn – this makes the join look like a shoulder and helps the arms to hang down at the sides.. Make sure you place each arm symmetrically.
Attach the legs, pin the jacket into place, and then sew it on with your long navy tail.
Attach the arms and the belt.
Attach the dagger to the belt with the tail of the dagger, weave in and cut any remaining ends, and that's it - you're done!
I hope you’ve enjoyed making Astarion! Please tag me in your final creations @quicksavecrochet, add your questions and comments below, or contact me using the contact form or pop me an email at quicksavecrochet@gmail.com.